Posts Tagged ‘Self Home Repair’

Installation

Tools Needed

Hammer & Nails

Angled power nailer

Hand saw or even better, a Chop Saw

Tape measure

Flat prybar

Chalk line

I personally recommend that you first lay a moisture barrier under the hardwood. Then you pick your starting point, it is usually along the longest wall. Your first run of planking should be marked with a chalk Read the rest of this entry »

The most important tip that I can give you about working with wood, is always use a high quality wood glue when joining two pieces of either new or old wood together. When glue is applied to both sides, and moderately clamped together, they form a tighter bond than if you were to use nails. And even stronger yet, is to use glue, clamp the two together, predrill, and use a screws. Keep in mind Read the rest of this entry »

When working on electrical parts and connections, always turn the power off at the circuit panel or fuse box.

This section is designed to teach homeowners the basic parts description, and general knowledge of each item. It doesn’t cover all variables, so if your project is not a simple replacement of a specific part, please consult an qualified electrician. Before coming in contact with any live wires, always check (with a volt/ohm meter) to make sure your wires are dead even after or turn the power off at the panel box. Never change the size of a fuse or circuit breaker, always replace with the same size. If you’ve removed a 20 amp, replace it with a 20 amp. Read the rest of this entry »

Latex or Oil Base?

First of all, oil base paints do not have any lead in them anymore. Even though they are the best primers, and the oil enamels flow out and give you a very smooth surface. Latex and acrylic paints are the widely used paints for the interior and exterior of your home. Here you will find typical paints and their use’s. Read the rest of this entry »

Tools Needed

razor knife - cutting paper on the table, for corners…trimming on the wall…etc.

6 to 12 inch broad knife - used for guiding the razor on cuts

plastic flexible wipe down blade - for chasing bubbles, when hanging

4 to 8 foot seam roller - laying down seams

straight edge - used for making cuts on the table, for corners

clean sponges - washing and removing adhesive…keeping table clean Read the rest of this entry »

Basics

Drywall is sheetrock. It comes in widths of 1/8, 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8 inches. Your home has either plaster or sheetrock. You would only need to purchase and use sheetrock if you have a large hole, or if your doing a remodel and have torn out walls, or of course have built new ones. Most sheetrock is white and can be installed anywhere. When working in areas that have contact with water, such as around bathtubs, showers, and kitchen backsplashes, you want to use greenboard. Greenboard is the same size as regular sheetrock. You cut it and hang it the same as regular sheetrock, but it repels water Read the rest of this entry »

Below you will find out how everyday plumbing fixtures operate, how to repair and replace plumbing pipes and fixtures, and do your own troubleshooting.

ALWAYS REMEMBER TO TURN YOUR WATER OFF AT THE MAIN WHEN REPLACING OR REPAIRING YOUR FIXTURES

Soldering Copper

Tools needed:

Propane or Butane torch Read the rest of this entry »

Tools and materials

Tape Measure

Tile saw

Tile Cutter

Chalk Line

Level

Carpenters Square

Hammer

Trowel with notches

Rubber Faced Grout Float

Sponges

Exterior Plywood or Backer Board Read the rest of this entry »

Basics

Since buying carpet for your home is a major purchase, it is best that you understand a little about what type you should buy, how it wears, and how to clean it. There are many different types for sale on the market. I will cover only a few, so you will have a little knowledge about your purchase before you go shopping. Read the rest of this entry »

The most common reasons for having to repair plaster are structure movement and just plain old and tired plaster. When repairing plaster you must remove any adjacent loose material. This means that you cannot firmly secure a patch that is adjacent to loose plaster. If your wall or ceiling has numerous cracks and buckles in it, it might not be salvageable. To test, lightly push on different areas, if you feel numerous gaps between plaster and the lath, this means that the plaster has separated from the lath and your whole wall should be replaced. If replacing a large section, I recommend using sheetrock and not plaster (see “Sheetrock”).  Read the rest of this entry »