Below you will find out how everyday plumbing fixtures operate, how to repair and replace plumbing pipes and fixtures, and do your own troubleshooting. ALWAYS REMEMBER TO TURN YOUR WATER OFF AT THE MAIN WHEN REPLACING OR REPAIRING YOUR FIXTURES Soldering Copper Tools needed: Propane or Butane torch Copper pipe and tube cutter Steel wool or sandpaper Wire pipe brush Soldering flux Roll of solid solder Tape measure Copper pipe comes in different sizes, as do the fittings. So before you buy make sure of the correct size. Most household copper is either 1/2 or 3/4 inch. Lets start with removing existing pipes. Removing: Start your torch and heat the fitting's). Timing is crucial, you don’t want to overheat the fitting because this will send the solder back

into the fitting. As soon as you see the solder bubbling out, start turning the pipe or fitting with a pair of pliers or channel locks, at the same time separating them. All copper fittings can be reused, so clean them as you go. While it is still hot, use the wire pipe brush and clean all the old solder out. You must be careful not to bend the end of the pipe (if you want to reuse it), or the fitting. If you do in any way bend these parts, throw them away, they can’t be used again. Installing: After cutting pipe with the cutter, clean the burrs out on the inside of the pipe with the pointed blade on the top of the cutter. Then you must measure the pipe to fit INTO the fittings on both ends. With 1/2 inch copper, the pipe fits into the fitting 1/2 inch on either end of your pipe, so for every pipe length measurement (between fittings) you want to add 1 inch. Now with the wire pipe brush or sandpaper, rough up (shine) the pipe ends and the inside of the fitting. Whether you have multiple fittings or only one, you always want to make all your cuts, and then dry fit them all. Then disassemble them and get ready to solder. When reassembling the pipe, you want to apply flux (with a small flux brush), to pipe ends and the inside of the fittings. The flux is the most important part of the soldering procedure, without it the solder will never stick, and you won’t be able to achieve a seam that doesn’t leak. If you miss a spot you will have to disassemble it, and start over. Ignite the torch, and start heating the fitting evenly. When the flux starts bubbling out of the fitting it is time to start applying the solder. While the flame is still heating the fitting, press the solder into the fitting. If it starts drawing to the inside, it is hot enough, withdraw the flame and continue pressing the solder into the fitting. Once you see that the gap between pipe and fitting is full of solder, you are finished. Plastic ABS ~ PVC Tools needed: Tape measure Fine tooth hand saw 1/2 sheet of 80 grit sandpaper Can of plastic pipe neutralizer Can of either ABS or PVC glue Wax pencil Measure and assemble. Start by prefitting together as many fittings as you can, (NO GLUE YET). Next measure the pipe length in between fittings, remembering that the pipe has an added inch or so, on either end, to fit into the fitting. Prefit all the joints from one end to the other. Now with a wax pencil make a mark at all joints, marking both pipe and fitting. Disassemble. With the dabber included in the can of neutralizer, apply it liberally to all pipe ends and the inside of all fittings. Let dry. Now, one fitting at a time (because the glue dries fast), apply a liberal amount of glue to both the pipe end and the inside of the fitting. Quickly squeeze the two together, and then give them a 1/4 inch turn back and forth. Making sure that they end up back at your pencil mark. Continue until all the joints are finished but one, then connect your series of pipes to one of the existing ends. Now the last piece. Quickly glue all 4 ends at once and twist them into position. Compression Fittings Old style compression fittings are on their way to distinction as we speak. That is, the type with the moveable washer (ring). New technology has created for us waterless fittings. And even though they might cost a little more, they are worth their weight in gold. If you are removing any supply lines under your sink, I recommend that you throw the old away and buy new. If you are working with long flexible lengths of water lines of 1/2 inch and less, you will still be working with the old style. Such as a flexible dishwasher supply line, or icemaker supply line. These will be adequate, just remember, don’t over tighten. Drains Slow drains: This is the best time to work on unclogging a drain. If you wait until the water stops draining completely, you’ll have a tougher time fixing the problem. Try pouring some scalding hot water down the drain first. Then remove the stopper (if applicable), and check to see if there is any hair or debris to remove. Using a plunger: When using a plunger, you must have enough water in the sink or toilet bowl to cover the base of the plunger. If you’re working on a double sink, place a stopper in the other sink, you want to make as tight of a seal as you can. Vigorously pump up and down for a couple of minutes, until clog is free. Store bought chemicals: When you drains starts slowing down, it’s time to start with the chemicals. Follow instructions on container. If you have to use chemicals more than once a month, you could be eating your pipes away from the inside out. Chemicals are very strong. If problem persists, you should consider calling on a rooter specialist. Kitchen sinks should never have grease poured down the drain. This is the #1 culprit, with slow kitchen drains Water Leaks Finding water leaks that are covered up in a wall could be a tough one. If water is not evident from under your plumbing fixtures, it must be from a connection that's buried in your wall or under the floor. An early sign would be, to be able to hear the water dripping or running. If it’s a small slow leak, and not evident, such as water pouring out of your ceiling or down a wall, you will see a water stain. Either way your going to have to cut an inspection hole through your sheetrock or plaster. Once leak is found, then you can determine what type of fitting or pipe that you will need. Noisy Pipes Water pipes only make noise when water is being tuned on or off. Most common is, when the plumber who the did the rough ins (pipes that are installed before sheetrock or plaster is installed), did not apply enough pipe straps to the wall studs. To fix this you’ll have to try to pin point where a strap's) is needed. Use a stethoscope or a flexible rubber hose, place it to your ear and up to the wall to locate. Once located you will have to cut an inspection hole to make sure. Apply a strap and try to have the pipes chatter again. Toilets How they work When you depress the handle, an arm with a chain attached to both it and the flapper ball lifts off the drain (flush valve). The water then pours quickly from the tank to the toilet bowl. The added water in the bowl plus gravity surges the waste water down through the p trap, and out to the sewer it goes. After the water level in the tank reaches the flapper ball, it falls down on top of the drain, thus sealing it. Then water is replaced in the tank. While this is happening the ballcock (float) is rising with the water. When it reaches a preset level, the ballcock shuts water supply off. Replace interior parts Chain: The chain is the easiest to replace, but very seldom needs to. There are hooks on either end of the chain, hook to the flapper first. Remove the hook from the arm end of the chain and place it on the arm. Then adjust the chain so there is a little slack between the flapper and the arm. Now with your preset length of chain, slip it onto the hook. Flapper: Flappers are the most common part that needs replacement. It simply unhooks from the top of the flush valve. When you replace this, you might have to trim the new rubber, follow the directions on the package. Flush Valve: To replace the flush valve you must remove the tank. First turn off water supply, then flush the toilet to drain the water from the tank. Now disconnect the top of the supply line. Place an old towel on the floor because a little water will still be left in the tank. There will be two nuts with bolts connecting it to the bowl. Disconnect those and your tank is ready to be lifted off the toilet bowl. To remove the valve you will need a large pair of channel locks. To reinstall, simply trace your steps backward. Float: The float is replaced by twisting it in counter clockwise motion, and yes you guessed it, to replace, turn it clockwise. Ballcock: Turn off water supply, disconnect the top of the supply line. Above the top of the supply line connection you will find a nut that you simply unscrew to remove. That disconnects the ballcock from the tank. Troubleshooting Water is leaking into the bowl: The flapper needs replacement Tank does not fill all the way: The arm on the float needs to be bent upward, it is turning the ballcock off too early. Ballcock is leaking: There are two or three screws on top of the ballcock. Try to tighten them first. If that doesn’t solve the leak, unscrew them and replace the washer inside with a new one. Remove and replace toilet First turn off water supply. Flush water to empty tank. Remove water supply line. Remove the two nuts at the base of the bowl. Pull toilet straight up and set on newspaper, so you don’t get wax from the wax ring underneath the bowl, on your floor. Remove all existing wax from the floor seal and the bottom of the bowl. Place new wax ring on the bottom of the bowl or on top on the floor gasket and gently spread it . Make sure the two bolts are standing straight, and reset the toilet. Tighten nuts on the bolts. You will crack the porcelain if you over tighten. Replace water supply line. Turn on water. Check for leaks. Sinks and Faucets Replacing waste pipes under sinks Tools needed Channel locks Tape measure Hacksaw Water pail First turn water supply off, and then turn faucet on to drain. Pace water pail under “P” trap, to catch water. Use the channel locks and slowly loosen both nuts on the “P” trap. Once water starts to drain, hold the bottom of the trap, so it doesn’t drop, and continue to loosen by hand. The “P” trap is full of water, so be aware. Once off, remove pail of water and do not pour it back in the sink (remember there is no drain). Now go outward in either direction, removing any rotten pipes. The two pipes that ( if replacing), you might have to cut the length with the hacksaw, would be the pipe coming from both the sink drain, and out of the wall. Always replace old washers with new ones. Take note that with small sinks such as in a bathroom or bar, they have smaller drains, so the pipe coming out of the sink will be a reducer. Fix your leaking faucet There are basically two types of faucets : Compression and Washerless Compression are the style that have two handles and two valves. If you remove the handle by loosening the set screw you will expose the valve. With a crescent wrench remove the valve. At the bottom of the valve is the washer that sits against the valve seat. Remove the screw that holds the washer and replace the washer with one of the same size. While your that far, check the valve seat. If you look into where you removed the valve you can see the top of the seat, and also feel it with your finger tip. If there is a jagged edge, it must be replaced. If it needs replacement and you don’t, after you reassemble the faucet, it will stop leaking, but only until the seat eats up the new washer. In no time at all your back to a leaking faucet. Remove the seat with a special seat wrench. And replace with the same size. Reassemble faucet. Before turning water back on, remove filter screen at head of faucet, so any pipe sediment that comes forward does not clog filter screen. Run water for three minutes. Replace filter. Washerless faucets are usually the type with only one handle. They work with a interior mixing valve that aligns two holes together so water can flow through them. It is very seldom that this type fails, but they too have washers that might need replacing. To disassemble, remove the set screw behind the handle. Slightly twist and pull the handle up. Every washerless faucet has it’s own type of ball or cartridge, and there are also “o” ring washers. Remove inner body and match it with a new one at the hardware store. Fixing your leaking sink There are only two places a sink can leak, under the faucet (see “Replace Faucet” below), and in the basket strainer. To repair the latter you have to take the basket apart. From under the sink you first have to remove the p-trap. And then with a basket wrench or a large set of channel locks disassemble the basket. Clean all parts. Where the top of the basket meets the inside rim of the sink, form a roll of plumbers putty (about pencil size), around the bottom of the top ring. Insert it back into the sink. Under the sink you first have a cork style washer ring. (this usually doesn’t need replacement, but if it is torn or deformed, it too must be replaced). Next comes a large nut. Before you tighten this nut, align your strainer from the top side. Tighten this nut with the basket wrench or a large pair of channel locks. Don’t over tighten. Then replace your waste line down to the p trap. Replace your faucet First turn off water supply. Disconnect flexible water inlet lines at the valves. Under the sink you will find one or two nuts that hold the faucet in place. Remove these and pull faucet up and out. Form a rim of plumbers putty (pencil size) under the base of the faucet. Reinstall and tighten nuts, making sure that the faucet does not move while tightening. Apply Teflon tape to the threaded ends, and hook up your water inlet lines. Before turning water back on, remove filter screen at head of faucet, so any pipe sediment that comes forward does not clog filter screen. Run water for three minutes. Replace filter. Replace your sink First you have to disconnect the water supply lines from the valves below the sink. Leave the lines connected to the faucet. Once that is done follow the directions to remove the basket. See “Fix Leaking Sink” above. Now with the faucet lines unhooked and the basket removed it’s time to remove the sink. If your sink has a steel rim around it, remove the clips that secure it to the counter from below. If the sink does not have a rim, than most likely it has a caulking compound securing it to the counter. If that’s the case then you take a putty knife and dig under the sink to loosen it. Use caution so you don’t damage the counter. Now firmly grasp the faucet and the hole where you removed the basket, and lift the sink out. If you are removing a cast iron sink, you should get help with the lifting because of the weight factor. Now clean the counter of any old putty or caulk. Unscrew the faucet from the old sink and reinstall it on the new one. For ease and convenience, install the basket, (see “Fix Leaking Sink” above) before installing sink. Following sink manufacturers directions and apply putty or caulking compound under the rim of the sink. Get help if needed and set the sink in the hole, making sure that it is centered with the backsplash and the counters edge. Reinstall drain connections and the water supply lines. Before turning water back on, remove filter screen at head of faucet, so any pipe sediment that comes forward does not clog filter screen. Run water for three minutes. Replace filter.

Leave a Reply

Name (required)

Mail (will not be published) (required)

Website

Submit Comment