Tools and materials Tape Measure Tile saw Tile Cutter Chalk Line Level Carpenters Square Hammer Trowel with notches Rubber Faced Grout Float Sponges Exterior Plywood or Backer Board Tile Adhesive Tile Spacers Grout Grout Sealer Glazed vs. Unglazed Glazed Glazed tiles have many different sheens: Glossy, Semi Gloss, Low Gloss, Matte, and Opaque If you have a high traffic area, I strongly recommend glazed tile. They do not absorb dirt any type of stain, and can be easily cleaned. Unglazed Unglazed tile, whether used inside or outside, still need to be sealed. They are very porous. Once unglazed tiles come in contact with any liquid, food, or any form of dirt, you will not be able to remove the stain. The more coats of liquid glaze that you apply, the less porous they become and the more

they clean up. The liquid glaze that you use on unglazed tiles can be purchased with the following sheens, Matte, Semi-Gloss and Gloss. Measuring To find how much tile to purchase, you simply find the square footage. To do that, make sections, and multiply the width by the length. Example: Floor is 4 feet by 6 feet 4 x 6 = 24 square feet When ordering tile, a general rule of thumb is to add an additional 10 to 20%. Also measure how many lineal feet you will need of bullnose, and backsplash cornering. Count how many inside corners you need. Count how many outside corners you need. You will use your total square footage for ordering adhesive and also the grout. Installation Before you start to apply adhesive, and actually lay any tiles, you should start the job by laying out your tiles and do a dry run. That is you lay one row of tiles in either direction. This is when you’ll find out where to make level and straight lines with your level. Use the carpenter square to make sure that your starting both lines at a perfect right angle (very important). These lines will guide you to keep your tiles continuing in straight lines. Walls and floors are very seldom square, so once you have your lay out, all your tiles (around the perimeter) can be precut, marked, and stacked. Professionals do not usually have to precut tiles, only because they have experience and speed in their corner. They lay the whole field out first and then cut all their perimeter cuts before the adhesive can set up. Most types of adhesives set up in about 30 minutes. Once you have your guide lines marked and the perimeter tiles cut, It’s time to mix adhesive. Since different types of tiles have different adhesives, it’s difficult to explain how to mix the type that your using. So please mix the adhesive according to the package instructions. The specific adhesive you use will also have directions for which size notched trowel you will need to spread the adhesive. When you start spreading the adhesive with the notched trowel, make sure that you don’t cover your lines. Depending on the type of tiles you chose, will depend on whether you will need to use spacers between the tiles. Most 4 inch tiles have small ridges on the edges for automatic spacing, these tiles when laid tight together, make 1/8 inch gaps between tiles. And if laid in a straight line, you get a perfect grout line. As you place the tiles on the adhesive, give them moderate pressure with your hand and also give them a slight twist. then straighten them into correct position. Always let your tiles sit overnight, before grouting. Never try to grout before the adhesive is totally dry. Grouting Tiles with 1/8 inch spacing ~ Use non-sanded grout Tiles with larger spacing ~ Use sanded grout When mixing the grout, add grout fortifier instead of water, for a stronger grout mix that won’t crack as easy. Apply grout with the rubber-faced grout float. Force the grout in between tiles at a diagonal angle. Continue in this direction until all voids are filled. Once filled, scrape as much of the excess off the face of the tiles, without removing any from the grout line. You want the grout lines to be even with the face of the tile. With a clean sponge wipe away as much of the grout off the face as you can. Always work with small areas at a time (10 square feet) Because grout, when in thin layers dries very fast. After 1/2 hour or so, when the grout on the surface of the tile, has a dry film, it’s time to rub the surface with a piece of cheesecloth. This will polish the tiles, and add luster. Let your grout dry for two weeks or until the grout color is uniform, before you proceed with sealing the grout. Applying Sealer Sealers are clear, so they don’t effect the color of the tile or grout. When applying the sealer, make sure to cover all surfaces evenly. Sealer will take 2 or 3 coats, let sealer dry overnight, or until completely dry. Care and Maintenance Sweep and vacuum regularly, to keep as much dirt and grime off the floor as possible. Use a clean damp mop or sponge to clean your floors every other day, depending on the amount of traffic. If there are tough stains on tile, use a diluted mixture of household detergent. Never use an abrasive cleanser or scouring pad to clean tile. This will scratch the surface over time. Grout lines that have darkened over time, are usually caused by mold and can be brought back to their original luster, with a solution of 50% water to 50% household bleach.

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